things change, Kundun, things change...

....so, I'm in McLeod Gang (the upper neighbor to Dharmsala).

Right after writing my last post I had a talk with one of my fellow travelers (Ilan) and realized that I really didn't want to go up to Gangotri at all (the idea of heading to another major Hindu site in the peak of pilgrimage season...), especially since I wasn't well enough to trek. So we decided to let the others go ahead, while we headed over to Dharmsala instead.

As things turned out, that night we both became really ill, so it was a very good thing that we weren't planning on spending the whole day on the bus -- it would have been totally impossible. Instead we moved to a smaller room at our guesthouse and played invalid for over 24 hours (he had a bad cold with fever and cough, I was alternating between vomiting and diarrhea). It was totally miserable and hilarious.

In our delirium somehow we decided that we would be able to make the long journey to Dharmsala in our weakened condition (we reasoned that we were somewhat better, and that resting on the bus wouldn't be that different from resting in the guesthouse, and the prospect of heading into the mountains would make us feel better -- and furthermore, we stood no chance of getting better in the NOISY chaotic setting where we were...) -- so we hopped on a 14 hour cramped bus with no AC, hard, non-reclining, tiny seats, etc. It was the real Indian experience, to be sure. Then, once we arrived (at 4AM, slightly ahead of schedule - a first in the history of travel in India), we had to wait until 8 to catch a bus up to McLeod Gang to find a place to stay...

But now, we're settled and totally delighted. Our room is in a guesthouse where all the proceeds go to the attached monastery. we have a terrace outside our room with incredible mountain views. Even the chilly air and thunderstorms are exactly what the doctor ordered. I'm still feeling weak, but I've started eating again -- so with rest I feel confident that I'll come back stronger than I've been this whole month.

I love you all and am thinking of you tons -- who knows, maybe I'll even manage some postcards soon!