We're in our final days here in Varanasi, and I am totally exhausted. I figure I'd better write now though, since I have no idea how much access I'll have to computers in the next month, once we leave. I'm planning on traveling with some friends from the program up to the source of the Ganges, as well as some other remote places before landing in Dharmsala on July 1st -- so please don't be worried if there's an extended break in communication!
The theatrics of the professors and the group as a whole have increased tenfold since our numbers started decreasing (many students have left the program early to do other traveling). Our most dramatic action thus far took place at dawn a few days ago. Seven of us students went into the middle of the Ganges and shaved our heads to the scalp. It feels so wonderful to be completely bald!
The day we went, the river was at its lowest for the year. A tiny sand island had appeared in the middle of the river, just the day before, and there was a makeshift lingum built from sand, as well as a statue of Ganesh there. We rowed out and shed our locks, one by one, much to the amusement of the various locals and pilgrims that were also out there to bathe and worship. They said that it was lovely of us to give our hair as an offering to the Ganga. Later we were told that there is a practice of giving your hair to the Ganga in Benares -- it is supposed to insure great health and prosperity for your family, as well as securing a good next life.
All of that aside, I am simply basking in the freedom of having no hair. I'm especially glad that it's changed the nature of the stares I receive on the streets. Now there is a lot more curiosity and laughter in the expressions around me, making everything feel lighter... I think this will be especially nice for launching into the next stage of travel (incidentally, my two travel companions both shaved their heads as well, so we'll make a fine trio). And if nothing else, I'll certainly fit in once I reach the convent where I'll be staying in Dharmsala!
There's always more, but I'm going to cut this short and enjoy the last bits of my time here. I love the comments and emails I'm getting from everyone -- sorry if I haven't replied individually. You are all held warmly in my thoughts.
much love,
e
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1 comment:
Hey honey-
I can't tell you what a thrill it is to catch a spiced breeze off the Ganges as I sit here in my cube in Mounds View. Suddenly India swirls around me, so impossibly vivid and rich. Amazing, how she gets in your blood, calls your name.
I LOVE that image of the seven of you standing in the middle of the river shaving your heads. So beautiful. You have a true gift for story and image. I can't wait to hear more. (I'm hoping there's a movie.) Thank you for bringing all of us along on your adventure. Big huge love, -Renie
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